13th-century streets that time genuinely forgot — and a battle Leonardo tried to paint

Enter through one of the medieval gates and climb the steep Corso Matteotti (also called "La Croce") — the main artery of the town. The streets are narrow, steep, and authentically medieval: no tourism polish, no gift shops, just stone walls and shuttered windows. The Church of San Francesco sits at the summit. Below, Piazza Baldaccio is the old market square — arcaded buildings, a handful of honest cafés, and a weekly market on Wednesdays since 1388.

Palazzo Marzocco houses the museum dedicated to the 1440 Battle of Anghiari. The battle was pivotal — Florentine forces defeated Milan, securing Tuscany's independence. In 1503, Leonardo da Vinci was commissioned to paint the battle on a wall in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. He experimented with a wax-based encaustic technique that failed, and the work was abandoned. Rubens later made a famous drawing of the composition (now in the Louvre). The museum tells the story. ~€3–5 entry, allow 45 minutes.

Walk the Via di Ronda along the top of the 13th-century walls. The panoramic view over the Upper Tiber Valley is extraordinary — open farmland stretching to the mountains of Umbria. Allow 30 minutes for the perimeter.

• Steep cobblestone streets — good walking shoes non-negotiable.
• The museo closes for a lunch break around 1:00 PM, so time the Battle Museum visit accordingly if you want to include it.
• Piazza Baldaccio has cafes where you can sit and soak in the atmosphere — skip the temptation to browse; you'll have plenty of time to wander.

Six generations of Tuscan textile art — on 19th-century looms that still use punch cards

The Busatti family has been weaving in Anghiari since 1842. Their workshop occupies the cellars of Palazzo Morgalanti, where original 19th-century Jacquard looms with punch-card programs sit alongside shuttle looms from the 1920s–1960s. The looms are not museum pieces — they run. Watching the weavers work is mesmerizing: threads interlocking at speed on machines that predate electricity. The showroom upstairs sells linens, table runners, towels, and throws — the quality is unmistakable.

• The punch-card looms are genuinely extraordinary — this is living textile history.
• Ask the weavers to explain the punch-card mechanism; they love sharing the craft.
• Textiles make wonderful gifts or souvenirs. Quality is exceptional and prices are fair.

Michelin Bib Gourmand — the best table in town, hidden behind a wooden door

Via Garibaldi 8, Anghiari. Michelin Bib Gourmand 2025. A rustic trattoria where everything is made in-house — bread, pasta, breadsticks, desserts. The bringoli (thick local egg pasta) with meat ragù is the signature dish. Pan-fried liver with sage and white wine. The proprietor Gianni will steer you to the right wine. Expect ~€20–35/pp. Closed Tuesdays. Call ahead: +39 0575 788040.

Bringoli all ragù — the house specialty, simple and perfect. Fegato alla salvia — pan-fried liver with sage. Ask Gianni for his wine recommendation; he knows the local producers well.

• The restaurant is genuine and unpretentious — no English menus, no fuss, just good food.
• Portions are generous. The bringoli is rich; don't order too much else.
• If anyone wants wine to take back to the villa, Gianni can point you to shops in town.

Piero della Francesca's Resurrection — Aldous Huxley called it the greatest painting in the world

If you have time and energy, Sansepolcro is just 8 km (15 minutes) northeast. The Museo Civico contains Piero della Francesca's Resurrection fresco — a haunting, serene masterpiece. Aldous Huxley called it the greatest painting in the world. A quiet, deeply rewarding museum visit in a town that draws almost no crowds. Allow 1–1.5 hours for the museo and a walk through the centro. The combo of Anghiari + Sansepolcro makes for one of the best art-and-history days in Tuscany.

• The Resurrection is small but unforgettable — sit with it for a few minutes.
• Sansepolcro's centro is quiet and medieval, much like Anghiari but without the tourist crowds.
• If you add Sansepolcro, plan to depart Da Alighiero by 1:30 PM to have the afternoon free.